A.Apply sealer in accordance with manufacturer’s instructions.
B.Allow surfaces to dry completely after hardening.
C.Clean surfaces; remove loose and foreign matter that could interfere with application or performance of sealer.
D.Remove dye and hardener residue using dry microfiber pad or by buffing.
E.Coverage Rate: 1000 to 1500 square feet per gallon.
F.Apply first coat by spraying evenly using low-pressure pump sprayer with conical tip at rate of 0.05-0.07 gallons per minute at 40 PSI.
G.Apply enough product to achieve uniform coverage.Do not over apply.
H.Allow surfaces to dry completely, then apply second coat by spraying in front of microfiber pad using low pressure pump sprayer with conical tip at rate of 0.05-0.10 gallons per minute at 40 PSI.
I.Allow sealer to dry for 24 to 48 hours.
J.Using burnishing equipment and 400, 800, and 1500 grit burnishing pads, burnish to uniform sheen matching approved mockup.
AIR FLOW AND HIGHER TEMPERATURES WILL HELP TO SPEED THE DRYING OF ENDURABLE CONCRETE SEALER. Keep in mind temperature of concrete should be below 100 degrees to avoid curing issues. Dark concrete will tend to be hotter.
ENDURABLE CONCRETE SEALER IS AN AMAZING PRODUCT. Using this product on textured concrete such as broom-finished concrete or stamped concrete is very easy. We recommend that you apply the product by sprayer with conical tip size of .05 - .15 gpm at 40 psi for the first coat. The second coat may be applied via sprayer and then followed with a T-Bar microfiber applicator or 3/16" roller to help even out the product. You may spray a second or third coat as long as it is applied evenly. Do not over-apply the product. Once you see that the surface is turning milky white you have enough product and you do not want to apply any more product. On textured or stamped concrete the sealer my settle into the lower impressions of the surface. If this happens, simply use a rag or cloth to blot the area so the sealer will cure properly. It is very easy and you will love the results. Do not apply over 4 mils per coat or the product will not cure out properly.
Applying this product on SMOOTH PROFILED SURFACES requires a little more technique to apply evenly and avoid streaking. You should still apply the first coat with spray with a tip size of .05 - .15 gpm at 40 psi. Make sure that the surface appears wet but do not over-apply. When the surface starts turning milky white, you know that there is enough product and you need to be careful to not over apply the product. See instructional video. The second coat is easiest to apply with a sprayer and then follow behind with a T-bar applicator, a micro-fiber pad or roller. If using a T-bar, use the Nylafoam or Nanolock applicator pads depending on grit or porosity. Again, do not over-apply and watch for the milky white look to know when you have enough product applied. One option to help with an even application on a smooth profiled floor is to apply the product and use a low-speed buffer while the material is still wet. Applying ENDURABLE F1 SEALER over the ENDURABLE CONCRETE SEALER will help with an added layer of protection, increased slip-resistance, and it will also help even out any streaking if you weren't able to apply the ENDURABLE CONCRETE SEALER perfectly. ENDURABLE F1 SEALER must be applied to the ENDURABLE CONCRETE SEALER in a re-coat window ONLY. This period is 2-3 hours after ENDURABLE CONCRETE SEALER is dry to the touch.
WHEN APPLYING GLOSS, be aware that you will achieve higher levels of gloss with a thicker film build. Apply liberally to achieve higher sheen levels, but be careful not to apply more than 4 mils or you may encounter a "foaming" that will not allow the sealer to cure out properly and will leave a white tone to the sealer in the areas where it was over-applied. The use of a low-speed buffer with a white or red pad during application will often yield a higher gloss sheen. Also, too many coats applied too quickly might make the sealer cure slower. Make sure the first coat has had time to properly dry before additional coats are applied.
Whenever the sealer is applied to NON-POROUS SURFACES, such as existing sealers, profiled concrete, or high-density overlay materials, you should apply the second coat at 1 to 1 instead of 2 to 1 with water. If you do not, you may have residual Component 1 left on the surface that is left un-reacted and can leave an oily residue for several days. The reason for this circumstance is that the quantity of Component 1 is correct for POROUS concrete and when you apply this product to NON-POROUS surfaces, the Component 1 is not able to soak into the concrete and can sit on the surface - un-reacted. If you encounter a situation where you have the oily residue on the surface, you may do one of three things. First, you take a low-speed buffer with a red pad to the surface and it should help remove the oily residue. Second, you can try to mop the floor with a CLEAN mop and CLEAN water. Do not do this unless the sealer has been allowed to dry for a minimum of 24 hours -- perhaps longer on gloss. What that will do is help the un-reacted Component 1 to react and the oily feel should go away faster. The third option is to apply another coat of sealer at a 1 to 1 ratio. That should leave you with a surface that is not oily after it is allowed to dry according to the standard dry times.
If you would like to add SLIP RESISTANT ADDITIVE to ENDURABLE CONCRETE SEALER, you may add grip to the sealer like many traditional sealers. It is best to add the 100 mesh polypropylene to the sealer and apply in the first coat application. Then we recommend applying the second coat of sealer, without 100 mesh propylene at a mix rate of 1 part water to 1 part sealer instead of 2 to 1. You may even wish to apply a third coat to guarantee complete encapsulation of the 100 mesh polypropylene. For a higher level of grip, you can purchase a 90 mesh sand, which is may come in different colors and textures. After applying the first coat of sealer, you can “hand broadcast” the sand over the sealer and then seal again after the first coats has cured enough.
TEMPERATURES, SUNLIGHT, AND AIRFLOW are vital to the ENDURABLE CONCRETE SEALER when curing. If an exterior surface faces north or east and there is no sun light or wind and the air temperature is 50-60 degrees, the concrete might be too cold for the water moisture in the sealer to evaporate before the chemical reaction takes over. Simulated air movement can then help the sealer cure.
ENDURABLE CONCRETE STAIN may be ADDED DIRECTLY to the ENDURABLE CONCRETE SEALER. Lighter amounts of stain can give the top coat of sealer different accents, while large amounts can make the sealer and concrete appear opaque.
When STAINING OVER curing ENDURABLE CONCRETE SEALER, make sure to not add too much stain mixed into acetone. Endurable Concrete Sealer should be dry to the touch and safe to walk on with NO TACKY feel. As the sealer is gaining strength, too much acetone, too early in the cure time, can slow or retard the reaction time of the sealer, as well as prematurely dry the sealer out of moisture, leaving “cooked” or burnt sealer. If this happens, the materials should be removed and re-applied in the proper manner.
AFTER APPLYING STAIN MIXED IN ACETONE over curing ENDURABLE CONCRETE SEALER, make sure to let the sealer regain its strength and start to harden. Acetone slows down the reaction time of the sealer. By letting a few hours pass, and allowing the sealer to harden, a T-bar may then be used to apply the sealer.
VERY POROUS CONCRETE may darken at different rates depending on how gritty the texture is. Make sure to apply very light coats to weathered concrete.
ENDURABLE CONCRETE STAIN MIXED IN ACETONE can be sprayed over ENDURABLE CONCRETE SEALER that has cured long enough, typically 3-8 hours after application depending on porosity and weather conditions. This can create many different layering or mottling affects with different colors. The window for adding color over sealer is typically no more than 36-48 hours.
ENDURABLE CONCRETE STAIN MIXED IN WATER can be sprayed over ENDURABLE CONCRETE SEALER that has cured long enough, typically 3-8 hours after application depending on porosity and weather conditions. This staining system can deliver durable and vivid results, while using zero solvents. A first layer of sealer must be applied first and allowed to cure enough before a second layer of sealer is applied to stain into with stain mixed in water.
FOR CONCRETE COUNTERTOPS AND SELF-LEVELING OVERLAYS, it is recommended to grind the surface for best results. If you see a blotchy look when applying to these surfaces, it can be a result of contamination from the self-leveling components in the overlay. One way to deal with surfaces like these is to apply the sealer and then go over the surface with a dry roller or microfiber to remove excess sealer. If a blotchy look is present, you can also wait for the sealer to dry for 24 hours before applying another coat which. This allows the sealer to cure out enough to avoid the transmission of the contaminant into the subsequent coat. A custom countertop company in Europe that uses our sealer exclusively, follows the following procedure to achieve incredible results: 1. The sealer is applied. 2. A dry roller is used to remove excess sealer. 3. The surface is lightly sanded. 4. The process is repeated for a total of 3 coats of sealer.